Motivational Speaker: Reinhold Messner

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Motivational Speaker: Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner started climbing mountains at the age of five and has been one of the world’s most outstanding mountaineers for thirty years. In his over three thousand climbs he has achieved over a hundred first ascents, and was the first to climb all of the world's 8000-metre peaks. Messner was the first to reach Mount Everest's top without oxygen support. He has crossed by foot the Antarctic, Greenland, Tibet, the deserts Gobi and Takla Makan.

Climber, writer, photographer and Member of the European Parliament from 1999 to 2004, Reinhold Messner was born in South Tyrol, Italy, on 17th Septem-ber 1944. He grew up in the Villnöss Valley in the Dolomites and later studied at the University of Padua.

Messner has written 50 books, which have been translated into more than a dozen languages. An eloquent speaker, he lectures throughout the world in international conferences, makes documentary films with well-known producers such as the BBC and contributes to specialist magazines such as Na-tional Geographic, Stern and Die Zeit. He has received literary prizes and inter-national awards in France, Germany, Italy, Nepal, Pakistan, the Czech Repub-lic, the United Kingdom and the USA. He is honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society and of The Explorers Club in New York. Between his jour-neys he lives at Juval Castle in South Tyrol where he runs a museum containing a considerable collection of Tibetan art and an organic hill farm. At present, besides being a prolific writer, he is developing the Messner Mountain Museum project, five interrelated thematic museums dedicated to the art, culture, relig-ion and peculiarities of mountain regions throughout the world. Recently he has found the Messner Mountain Foundation (MMF) in order to support the mountain races world-wide.

Messner has succeeded in opening numerous new ascent routes and has given an explanation to the mystery of the Yeti. In contrast to the modern fig-ure of the adventurer-protagonist, Messner has never sought to break records, trying instead to maximise the exposure to nature in its purity and limiting to the minimum the use of artificial tools. On Nanga Parbat he adopted Mummery's motto "by fair means", on the Arctic packice he has followed Nansen's "call of the North", and has crossed the Antarctic via the South Pole, following Shackle-ton's idea. In the era of mass communication, Messner chooses solitary trips, without the support of artificial means, from nails to oxygen and satellite tele-phones, experiencing nature as he is confronted with.

E X P E D I T I O N S

by Reinhold Messner

1950-64	about 500 climbs in the eastern Alps, mainly in the Dolomites;
1965	Ortler North Face (Direttissima), 1st ascent;
1966	"Walker Spur", Grandes Jorasses; Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face, 2nd ascent;
1967	Civetta Northwest Face „Weg der Freunde", 1st ascent; Agnér North Ridge, 1st winter ascent; Furchetta North Face, 1st winter ascent; Agnér Northeast Face, 1st ascent;
1968	Agnér North Face, 1st winter ascent; Eiger North Pillar, 1st ascent; Marmolata South Face (Dirett.), 1st ascent;
1969	expedition in the Andes; Droites North Face, 1st solo ascent; Marmolata di Rocca South Face (Direttissima), 1st solo ascent; Civetta „Philipp Flamm", 1st solo ascent;
1970	Nanga Parbat (8125m) Rupal Face, 1st ascent;
1971	expeditions to Nepal, Pakistan, Persia, East Africa, New Guinea;
1972	Manaslu (8156m) South Face, 1st ascent; Noshaq (7492m), Hindu Kush;
1973	Pelmo Northwest Face, 1st ascent; Marmolata West Pillar, 1st ascent; Furchetta West Face, 1st ascent;
1974	Aconcagua (6959m) South Face, 1st ascent; Eiger North Face in 10 hours;
1975	Hidden Peak (8068m) Northwest Face, 1st ascent of an 8000-metre peak in alpine style;
1976	Mount McKinley (6193m), „Wall of the Midnight Sun", 1st ascent;
1977	failed on Dhaulagiri (8167m) South Face;
1978	Mount Everest (8846m), 1st ascent without oxygen; Nanga Parbat (8125m) DiamirFace, 1st solo ascent of an 8000-metre peak; Kilimanjaro (5963m), „Breach Wall", 1st ascent;
1979	K2 (8611m), 1st ascent in alpine style; rescue operation on Ama Dablam ; Hoggar-expedition, Africa;
1980	Mount Everest (8846m) North Face, 1st solo ascent;
1981	Shisha Pangma (8012m), Tibet; Chamlang (7317m), North Face of the central summit, 1st ascent;
1982	Kangchenchunga (8598m) North Face, 1st ascent; Gasherbrum II (8035m) and Broad Peak (8048m) – first time that three 8000-metre peaks were climbed in one season; failed on Cho Oyu(8222m)in winter;
1983	Cho Oyu (8222m) Southwest Face in alpine style;
1984	1st traverse of two 8000-metre peaks: Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II;
1985	Annapurna (8091m) Northwest Face, 1st ascent; Dhaulagiri (8167m) Northeast Ridge, in alpine style;
1986	failed on Makalu (8485m) in winter; expedition in eastern Tibet; ascent of Makalu (8485m), Lhotse (8511m) and Mount Vinson (4897m, Antarctica);
1987	journey to Bhutan and the Pamirs;
1988	Yeti-Tibet-expedition;
1989	failed on Lhotse (8511m) South Face;
1989/90	traversed Antarctica (via the South Pole) on foot - 2800km;
1991	traversed Bhutan (east to west); hikes in South Tyrol - 800km;
1992	ascent of Chimborazo (6310m), Ecuador; crossed the Takla Makan desert (south to north), Sinkiang;
1993	journey to the Dolpo, Mustang and Manang areas in Nepal; traversed Greenland (diagonal - from south-east to northwest on foot - 2200km;
1994	Himalayan environmental trek to Gangotri in India (Shivling 6543m); Ruwenzori (5119m), Uganda;
1995	failed on an attempt to traverse the Arctic (Siberia to Canada); Belucha (4506m), Altai, Siberia;
1996	journey through East Tibet (Chengdu to Lhasa) and to Mt. Kailash;
1997	journey to Kham (eastern Tibet); Karakorum-expedition; documentary on the Ol Doinyo Lengai in Africa (holy mountain of the Massai);
1998	journey to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia) and to Puna de Atacama (Andes);
1999	documentary on San Francisco Peaks, USA (holy mountain of the Navajos);
2000	retraced Shackleton’s historic steps across South Georgia Island; Nanga-Parbat-expedition; Fujiama (documentary about the holy mountain);
2001	Dharamsala + Himalayan foothills / India; Gunung Agung/Bali (documentary about the holy mountain);
2002	In the "International Year of the Mountains" visit of mountain people in Ecuador and ascent of Cotopaxi (5897), Ecuador;
2003	trek to Mt. Everest on the occasion of the 50^{th anniversary of the first successful climb (Golden Jubilee Celebration in Kathmandu on May 29th); trip to Franz Joseph Land in the Arctic; on 1st October inauguration of the "Günther Messner School" in the Diamir valley/Nanga Parbat/Pakistan;}
2004	solo crossing of the full length of the Gobi desert (Mongolia) by foot (2000 km);
2005	documentary about TUWA nomads in Mongolia; trek around Nanga Parbat/Pakistan;
2006	traversed the Northern Patagonian Ice Field;
2007	climbing with his sun Simon in the Tassili-Mountains / Algeria;
2008	first shooting of the film "Nanga Parbat" in Pakistan; journey to Kamchatka;

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